Anyone who meets and chats with Jesus Puerto will soon learn that his little Cuban restaurant downtown is far more than just “a little Cuban restaurant.” Soul de Cuba Cafe, which opened in July 2006, is the outcome of a “supernatural series of events” and serves as a gateway to educate and enrich the lives of those who walk through its doors, “one spoonful at a time.”
If you have been to Soul de Cuba or happened upon its website, you may already know of owner Puerto’s incredible history. A Tampa, Florida native, Puerto is the descendant of Afro-Cuban immigrants of the 1800s. He has a degree in international relations bolstered by extensive work with Habitat for Humanity and Paul Newman’s Hole in the Wall Camps, among other organizations. He is now a co-founder of two Soul de Cuba Cafes (the first is in New Haven, Connecticut), along with his brother, Robert, and other founding partner, Yoon Kim.
But perhaps the most outstanding event of Puerto’s past was his miraculous recovery from spinal meningitis in 1993. Puerto strongly feels Babalu Aye, the Afro-Cuban deity in charge of the miracles of healing, provided a hand in his revival. A painting of Babalu’s likeness can be seen on the walls of Soul de Cuba, along with other Orisha, or deities of Santeria, the blend of West African and Roman Catholic spiritual traditions. First and foremost, Elegua sits above the doorway and the goddess of love and fertility, Ochun, is nearby. Three portraits of La Caridad del Cobre, literally “Virgin of the Town of Copper,” look down upon you from above the bar.
These paintings, along with 100- year-old cigar box labels and family photos dating back to the 1800s, add life and color. But they are not just ornamentation. They are there, Puerto says, because “learning about something fascinating, colorful, and ancient is powerful.”
Keeping tradition and history close is Puerto’s passion. Often encountering a lack of awareness about Cuba and its culture, Puerto strives to help that awareness grow. The interior of his restaurant including music, food and drink—don’t forget about Puerto’s divine sangria—are all part of an experience that was created to share. Puerto is also bottling some of his culinary traditions for others to use at home. The first product of his “Soul de Cuba” line is bottled Mojo (pronounced mo-ho), a citrus-based sauce with garlic, onion and other spices.
So, why Hawaii? It all began with a missed flight in April 2001. Puerto was on his way to Western Samoa as a member of the Peace Corps. He wanted a more direct flight route but the federal government insisted he go through Hawaii. In Honolulu, he missed the connecting flight and was forced into a 4-day layover. What seemed at first an inconvenience became a calling. Puerto formed a bond with Hawaii and in 2006 more “supernatural support” would seal the deal.
Puerto’s brother Robert was taking out the trash at their New Haven location when a man walking by struck up a conversation. This man turned out to be Robert Jackson, Director of Admissions at Yale University. Jackson and Puerto began talking about future plans of opening another restaurant, hopefully in Hawaii. Soon enough, Jackson used Yale alumni connections to link the restaurateurs with a local real estate agent. The message was clear: Honolulu was destined for a taste of Cuban cuisine.
“We live by that hope that people are interested in learning,” Puerto says. “I hope everyone in the state of Hawaii comes in at least once—if they haven’t already—to experience Cuban culture and cuisine.” By empanada, painting or a passionate conversation with Puerto himself, Soul de Cuba, serves to open your hearts and minds to the roots of African and Cuban traditions and will certainly feed your soul, if you are willing.
